Why some oils are more effective than others at stimulating hair growth

Introduction: Vegetable oils, an underestimated natural resource

In the field of hair care, vegetable and essential oils are making a comeback. But not all oils are created equal, and some have unique properties that make them real growth boosters. As a trichologist, I see the positive effects of good oils on scalp vitality and hair density every day. Understanding why some oils are more effective than others is the key to a natural, targeted, and highly effective hair care routine.

The hair follicle: a strategic biological target

Before choosing an oil, you need to understand its target: the hair follicle. This small organ located under the scalp skin produces keratin, the protein that makes up hair. It needs nutrients, oxygen, stimulation, and protection to function at full capacity. An effective oil therefore acts on the follicle's environment, but also on the hair fiber itself.

1. Vasodilator oils: reactivate microcirculation

Certain oils contain molecules that dilate blood vessels (vasodilation), which improves blood flow to the hair bulb. This promotes:

• Increased oxygen supply

• Efficient nutrient distribution

• Stimulation of the anagen (growth) phase

Examples:

• Rosemary cineole essential oil : increases local blood flow, awakens dormant follicles

• Castor oil : thanks to ricinoleic acid, it activates circulation and promotes hair thickening.

2. Anti-inflammatory oils: soothe for better growth

An irritated, inflamed, or sensitive scalp becomes hostile to hair growth. Oils rich in anti-inflammatory active ingredients help to calm the skin environment and provide a healthy environment for hair regeneration.

Examples:

• Black cumin oil : very soothing, ideal for scalps prone to itching or flaking

• Rice bran oil : soothes inflammation and protects the skin against environmental aggressors

3. Oils rich in essential fatty acids

Fatty acids (omega-3, 6, and 9) are essential for healthy cell membranes. They deeply nourish, soften the scalp, and strengthen the hair structure. An oil rich in these essential lipids improves:

• Scalp elasticity

• Natural hydration

• The strength of hair fiber

Examples:

• Avocado oil : ultra-nourishing, ideal for dry or brittle hair

• Grape seed oil : light, penetrating, rich in omega-6

4. Antioxidant oils: protect against hair aging

Oxidative stress linked to pollution, UV rays, or internal stress accelerates scalp aging. Certain plant oils are rich in antioxidants that protect cells, strengthen the skin barrier, and delay the onset of the telogen phase in hair follicles.

Examples:

• Pomegranate oil : rich in punicic acid, a powerful antioxidant

• Rice bran oil : contains tocotrienols (rare forms of vitamin E), which are highly effective in regenerating

5. The importance of personalized choice

Every scalp has its own specific needs. An oil that is effective for an oily scalp may not be suitable for a dry or irritated scalp. It is therefore essential to adapt your hair care routine:

• Oily scalp → jojoba, hazelnut

• Dry scalp → avocado, coconut, castor oil

• Sensitive scalp → chamomile, calendula, rice bran

• Scalp prone to hair loss → castor oil, black cumin, rosemary

6. The synergy of oils: why combine them?

The effectiveness of a hair treatment is greatly enhanced when combining several complementary oils. Example:

• Castor oil (stimulation) + Jojoba (balance) + Rosemary (circulation)

• Nigella (regeneration) + Rice bran (soothing) + Peppermint (oxygenation)

This personalized approach simultaneously addresses several needs: stimulation, hydration, regulation, and protection.

7. Application: best practices

• Apply to clean or slightly damp scalp.

• Gently massage for 5 to 10 minutes to promote absorption.

• Leave on for at least 30 minutes, ideally overnight.

• Use a mild shampoo to rinse without stripping the hair.

8. Recommended frequency of use

• Intensive treatment: 2 to 3 times per week for 1 month

• Maintenance: once a week

• Incorporation into daily serums: a few drops on the roots every evening

Conclusion: Targeted oils that should be incorporated without hesitation

Vegetable oils are much more than just comforting skincare products. When chosen with precision, they become true growth accelerators. Their vasodilator, anti-inflammatory, nourishing, and antioxidant properties work together to create an environment conducive to hair regeneration.

It is better to use one well-chosen oil than ten that are unsuitable. By incorporating these natural treasures into your routine, you will profoundly transform the quality and vitality of your hair.